2017 marked a significant turning point for Yves Saint Laurent, a house synonymous with haute couture and a legacy of iconic designs. That year, Anthony Vaccarello took the helm as creative director, injecting a potent blend of sharp tailoring, provocative silhouettes, and a distinctly modern sensibility into the brand's DNA. His appointment, while initially met with some apprehension from those steeped in the history of the house, ultimately proved to be a bold and successful reinvention, solidifying Saint Laurent's position at the forefront of contemporary luxury fashion.
Anthony Vaccarello, born on January 18, 1982, in Brussels, Belgium, is the only child of Italian parents. His father, a cartongesso maker, and his mother, an office worker, instilled in him a strong work ethic and an appreciation for craftsmanship that would profoundly shape his design philosophy. Unlike some designers who hail from privileged backgrounds immersed in the world of fashion, Vaccarello’s upbringing provided a grounded perspective, a contrast that arguably fueled his unique approach to luxury. His journey to becoming the creative director of one of the world's most prestigious fashion houses was a testament to his talent, dedication, and unwavering vision.
Before his appointment at Yves Saint Laurent, Vaccarello had already established himself as a rising star in the fashion world. His eponymous label, launched in 2009, quickly gained recognition for its sharp, body-conscious designs, often characterized by daring necklines, strategic cutouts, and a focus on celebrating the female form. His collections were a study in contrasts, blending sharp tailoring with a sensual, almost provocative aesthetic. This signature style, characterized by its confident and empowered femininity, would become a defining characteristic of his work at Saint Laurent.
The choice of Vaccarello to succeed Hedi Slimane, who had dramatically reshaped the brand's image during his tenure, was a bold move. Slimane's era saw a significant shift towards a leaner, more rock-and-roll aesthetic, a departure from the broader, more glamorous style often associated with Yves Saint Laurent's earlier years. Vaccarello's appointment signaled a departure from Slimane's vision, a conscious decision to build upon the house's rich history while forging a distinctly contemporary path.
Vaccarello's first collection for Saint Laurent, presented in October 2016 (for the Spring/Summer 2017 season), immediately established his vision. He retained some of the key elements that defined the brand's identity – the impeccable tailoring, the focus on luxurious fabrics, and the inherent sense of glamour – but infused them with his own unmistakable signature. The collection showcased a confident, modern woman, empowered and alluring, clad in sharp jackets, exquisitely tailored trousers, and dresses that celebrated the female form without resorting to overt sex appeal. Instead, the allure was subtle, inherent in the impeccable fit and the sophisticated design.
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